Korean Pharmacy Guide to Melasma, Dark Spots, Hyperpigmentation & Scars

💡 Key Takeaways at a Glance

Choosing by Ingredient: Ingredients such as hydroquinone, azelaic acid, nicotinamide, and tretinoin serve different purposes in improving hyperpigmentation and scars.
Treatment Duration: Improving hyperpigmentation requires consistent use for at least 8 weeks (2 months), while improving scars requires at least 3–6 months of consistent use.
Contraindications: Pregnant women, women of childbearing potential, and children aged 12 or younger must not use hydroquinone or tretinoin.
When Medical Care Comes First: Acute inflammatory lesions and severe keloid scars should be evaluated by a dermatologist rather than managed through self-care.

🎯 Who This Guide Is For: This guide is intended for people who want to manage acne marks, dark spots, or mild scars with pharmacy products, or who want to understand the differences between ingredients and their contraindications before considering an in-clinic procedure.

Can Melasma, Dark Spots, Hyperpigmentation, and Scars Be Managed With Pharmacy Products?

Korean pharmacies offer ointments containing ingredients such as hydroquinone, azelaic acid, nicotinamide, and tretinoin for managing melasma, dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and scars. However, each ingredient has a different recommended treatment duration and side-effect profile. Improving hyperpigmentation requires consistent use for at least 8 weeks (2 months), while improving scars requires at least 3–6 months of consistent use. Pregnant women, women of childbearing potential, and children aged 12 or younger must not use hydroquinone or tretinoin, so be sure to check before purchasing a product. Exact prices vary by store and region, but products generally cost approximately KRW 10,000–45,000, depending on the ingredient, brand, and whether a prescription is required. Contacting the pharmacy before visiting is recommended. This article covers hyperpigmentation and mild scars that fall within the scope of self-care. It does not address conditions that require medical evaluation first, such as acute inflammation or severe keloids.

Hyperpigmentation and Scars Are Different Problems

Hyperpigmentation and scars involve different underlying skin structures.

Melasma, dark spots, and hyperpigmentation occur when excess melanin—the brown pigment that gives skin its color—is produced and leaves patchy discoloration on the skin’s surface. Scars, by contrast, are tissue changes that develop when collagen—the fibrous protein that supports the skin—accumulates abnormally or is insufficient during wound healing. Although they may look similar, they have different underlying mechanisms, making it difficult to address both with the same ingredient.

Who This Article Applies To

People who want to manage acne marks, sun-induced dark spots, or mild scar marks with pharmacy products
People who want to understand the differences between ingredients and their contraindications before considering an in-clinic procedure
However, if you have an acute inflammatory lesion, a deeply depressed scar, or a keloid scar, dermatologic evaluation should come before self-care.

Why They Develop: Causes of Hyperpigmentation and Scars

How UV Exposure and Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) Work

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) occurs when excess melanin is deposited after inflammation caused by acne, a wound, UV exposure, or another trigger. Brightening ingredients such as hydroquinone work by inhibiting the activity of enzymes involved in melanin production. When the time required for existing pigment to be cleared through the body’s natural metabolism is taken into account, improvement requires at least 8 weeks. Because UV exposure stimulates melanin production again, failing to use sunscreen during the day can noticeably slow improvement or even darken hyperpigmentation, regardless of which ingredient you use.

Differences Between Atrophic, Hypertrophic, and Keloid Scars

Scars can be broadly divided into three types based on their appearance: atrophic scars, which appear depressed or indented; hypertrophic scars, which are red and raised; and keloid scars, which continue growing beyond the boundaries of the original wound. Keloid scars are characterized by excessive collagen deposition and continued growth. They are often difficult to manage through self-care alone and are a key type of scar that requires specialist evaluation.

Ingredient-Based Options Available at Korean Pharmacies

Four Ingredients for Hyperpigmentation: Hydroquinone, Azelaic Acid, Nicotinamide, and Tretinoin

Each ingredient has a different purpose and recommended treatment duration.

Hydroquinone—found in products such as Melatoning Cream 2%, Melanosa Cream and Domina Cream 4%, and Lustra Cream—is widely used to improve melasma, dark spots, and hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin production. Because it is unstable when exposed to UV light, it should be applied only at night, and sunscreen must be applied the following morning. Azelaic acid, found in products such as Azelia Cream, helps control sebum, exfoliate the skin, and improve hyperpigmentation. Because it is less irritating than hydroquinone, it is cited as a relatively safe alternative for pregnant women, breastfeeding women, and children. Nicotinamide, found in products such as Sebita B Gel, is suitable for oily or sensitive skin when both brightening and blemish care are desired. Tretinoin 0.025%, found in products such as Tuanti Cream, can be purchased only with a prescription. It is used to improve hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and enlarged pores, but must not be used by pregnant women or women preparing for pregnancy. Hydroquinone and tretinoin may initially cause temporary irritation, flushing, dryness, or stinging. If symptoms are severe or persistent, stop using the product and consult a pharmacist or healthcare professional.

Category (Ingredient)	Who It Is Suitable For	Use During Pregnancy or Breastfeeding	Prescription Required	Recommended Treatment Duration
Hydroquinone 2–4% (including Melatoning Cream)	Melasma, dark spots, and pronounced hyperpigmentation	Pregnant women and women of childbearing potential must not use it	No	Minimum: 8 weeks; maximum: less than 1 year
Azelaic acid (Azelia Cream)	Hyperpigmentation with acne	Relatively safe; cited as an alternative	No	At least 8 weeks
Nicotinamide (Sebita B Gel)	Simultaneous brightening and acne care	May be used due to low systemic absorption, but prior consultation is recommended because skin sensitivity may change during pregnancy	No	At least 8 weeks
Tretinoin 0.025% (including Tuanti Cream)	Improving hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and enlarged pores	Contraindicated during pregnancy and while preparing for pregnancy	Yes	Follow your healthcare professional’s instructions

🚨 Do Not Mix Ingredients Without Professional Guidance

A method involving a mixture of petroleum jelly, hydroquinone 2%, and tretinoin 0.025% to improve hyperpigmentation associated with neck wrinkles is shared online. However, because the mixture contains tretinoin, a prescription is required, and it must not be used by pregnant women or women preparing for pregnancy. It is safer to consult a pharmacist or healthcare professional before combining ingredients yourself.

Four Ingredient Categories for Scars: Heparin-Based, Silicone-Based, Hydroquinone-Based, and Panthenol-Based

To achieve improvement, scar-care products should be selected according to the type of scar. Heparin-based products, including Noscarna Gel, are used for red or hyperpigmented scars. Silicone-based products, including Dermatix Ultra Gel, are used when excess collagen has accumulated, as in surgical or keloid scars. Hydroquinone-based products, including Melatoning Cream, are used for brown hyperpigmented scars, while panthenol-based products are suitable when a low-irritation product is needed, including for newborns and pregnant women. Most products are applied one to three times daily and must be used consistently for at least three to six months before changes can be seen.

Ingredient Category	Suitable Scar Type
Heparin-based (including Noscarna Gel)	Red scars and hyperpigmented scars
Silicone-based (including Dermatix Ultra Gel)	Surgical scars and keloid scars
Hydroquinone-based (including Melatoning Cream)	Brown hyperpigmented scars
Panthenol-based	When a low-irritation product is needed, including for newborns and pregnant women

Supportive Ingredients for Regeneration and Moisturization: Madecassol, EGF, and Panthenol

Centella asiatica extract, found in Madecassol powder and gel, supports regeneration by promoting collagen synthesis. However, the commonly known Madecassol ointment, which contains an antibiotic and a steroid, is not suitable for regenerative purposes. If regeneration is the goal, be sure to choose the powder or gel formulation. EGF—recombinant epidermal growth factor, a signaling molecule that supports the regeneration of damaged skin cells—wound-healing ointment is used to promote collagen synthesis and regenerate damaged skin. It must be refrigerated, and use is recommended two to three days after a skin procedure. Dexpanthenol, found in products such as Bepanthen Ointment and D-Panthenol Cream, is used to moisturize the skin, restore the skin barrier, and promote epithelial healing. If dryness, skin-barrier damage, or blemishes are a greater concern, referring to a separate guide to pharmacy products for dryness, barrier damage, and blemish care may help you find a more appropriate solution.

👉 Are dryness, skin-barrier damage, or blemishes a greater concern? View Our Guide to Pharmacy Products for Dryness, Barrier Damage, and Blemish Care

With consistent use, you may see the marks gradually fade.

Considerations: Side Effects, Contraindications, and Exclusion Criteria

Pregnant women, women of childbearing potential, and children aged 12 or younger must not use hydroquinone or tretinoin. If any of these conditions apply to you, you should use a different ingredient regardless of the instructions described below. Hydroquinone must be used for at least eight weeks before results can be seen, but long-term use for one year or more is not recommended. Long-term use may cause exogenous ochronosis, in which the skin develops blue-gray or black discoloration, or skin atrophy. Hydroquinone should therefore be used for no more than three to six months, followed by a two- to three-month break. Tretinoin may increase the skin’s sensitivity to UV exposure during use, making concurrent sunscreen use essential. Neglecting sun protection may worsen hyperpigmentation regardless of which ingredient you use, so do not skip sunscreen if you will be outdoors during the day. If there is no noticeable change after two to three months of use, discontinuing that ingredient and considering other options is recommended.

🚨 Signs That You Should Seek Medical Treatment

Acute inflammatory lesions and severe keloid scars are unlikely to improve through self-care. If a scar becomes red and raised beyond the boundaries of the original wound and is accompanied by itching or pain, or if there is no improvement after using an ointment for three months or longer, promptly switching to professional treatment at a clinic, such as laser treatment or steroid injections, is recommended.

Contraindications During Pregnancy, Breastfeeding, and Childhood: Hydroquinone and tretinoin → do not use / Azelaic acid → cited as a relatively safe alternative
Precautions With Long-Term Use: Continuous hydroquinone use for one year or longer is not recommended
If Sun Protection Is Not Followed: Hyperpigmentation may worsen
Potential Local Irritation: Irritation, flushing, and dryness may occur when hydroquinone or tretinoin is first used

Managing Them in Korea: Cost, Duration, Visits, and Results

To see results, products must be used consistently for at least eight weeks (two months) to improve hyperpigmentation and at least three to six months to improve scars. Ingredients that do not require a prescription, such as hydroquinone, azelaic acid, and nicotinamide, can be purchased during a single pharmacy visit and then self-administered. Prescription ingredients such as tretinoin require at least one additional clinic visit and the issuance of a prescription. Nonprescription ingredients can be purchased directly from a pharmacy without an advance appointment, but a clinic visit must be completed first for prescription ingredients.

💡 If You Buy a Product While Traveling and Want to Continue Using It at Home

Store ointments in a cool place below 25°C. For a personal treatment supply of three to six months, carrying an English-language prescription or the ingredient name can help with continued use. Pharmacies in major tourist and medical districts, such as Myeongdong, Gangnam, and Hongdae, may provide service in English. At other pharmacies, presenting the ingredient name in English can also make purchasing easier.

Demand for regenerative and moisturizing pharmacy products has also continued to grow. As of 2023, the EGF wound-healing ointment category had grown by 22.4% year over year, while a specific product accounted for approximately 40% of the dexpanthenol ointment market by units sold in 2024. These figures are provided only as a reference for market size and do not constitute evidence guaranteeing the effectiveness of any specific product.

Item	Details
Estimated Cost	Approximately KRW 10,000–45,000 (varies by ingredient, brand, and whether a prescription is required)
Time Needed to Improve Hyperpigmentation	At least 8 weeks (2 months)
Time Needed to Improve Scars	At least 3–6 months
Number of Visits (Nonprescription Ingredients)	Self-use after one pharmacy visit
Number of Visits (Tretinoin and Similar Ingredients)	At least one clinic visit plus prescription issuance
Preparation	A clinic visit is required in advance for prescription ingredients; no advance appointment is needed for other ingredients

❓ Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: Can melasma and acne scars be managed with the same brightening ointment?

Hyperpigmentation and scars develop through different mechanisms, so the ingredient should be selected according to the type of scar—hyperpigmented, depressed, or keloid—to achieve improvement. Hydroquinone-based and panthenol-based products are suitable for hyperpigmented scars, while silicone-based products, including Dermatix Ultra Gel, are suitable for keloid scars. In all cases, consistent use for at least three to six months is required.

Q2: Can I use a brightening ointment during pregnancy?

Because the safety of hydroquinone and tretinoin has not been established for pregnant women or women of childbearing potential, their use is prohibited. Azelaic acid is cited as a relative alternative. Topical nicotinamide, or niacinamide 4%, has low systemic absorption and is relatively safe compared with other brightening ingredients. However, because skin sensitivity can change during pregnancy, consulting a specialist or pharmacist before use is recommended.

Q3: How long do I need to use a pharmacy brightening ointment to see results?

Hydroquinone must be used consistently for at least eight weeks (two months). Discontinuation is recommended if there is no improvement after two to three months, and long-term use for one year or more should be avoided. Products cost approximately KRW 10,000–45,000, depending on the product type, whether it contains a single ingredient or a combination of ingredients, and prescription fees.

Q4: What is the difference between scar ointments available without a prescription and ingredients that require a prescription?

Products such as Noscarna Gel, Dermatix Ultra Gel, and Melatoning Cream can be purchased without a prescription, while products containing tretinoin require a prescription. Prescription ingredients require an additional clinic visit and prescription issuance, while nonprescription products can be purchased with a pharmacy visit alone.

Q5: What is the next step if pharmacy products do not work?

If hyperpigmentation or scars do not improve despite consistent use for three to six months or longer, professional treatment such as laser procedures or skin boosters may be considered at a dermatology clinic. Pharmacy products are applied topically, while procedures differ in that they directly target the dermis. The most accurate way to confirm the recovery period and cost of each procedure is through a consultation at a clinic.

Next Steps: When Pharmacy Products Are Not Enough

Signs That It May Be Time to Consider a Dermatology Procedure

If hyperpigmentation or scars remain unchanged after trying different ingredients for three to six months or longer, it may be a sign that you have reached the limits of self-care. At that point, reviewing comparisons of different skin booster procedures in advance can help you assess which option may suit your concerns. Some conditions, such as keloid scars or acute inflammatory lesions, require specialist evaluation rather than self-care from the outset. Instead of insisting on pharmacy products alone, it is best to make a decision based on how the condition progresses.

👉 If improvement with pharmacy products has been slow, are you wondering which procedure may suit your concerns? Compare Different Skin Booster Procedures

Find a SafeDoc Partner Dermatology Clinic

If improvement through ingredient-based self-care has been slow, another option is to identify clinics where you can receive medical care in advance. However, this information is provided for reference only. Whether treatment is appropriate and which method should be used must be determined through a medical consultation.

👉 Would you like to review dermatology clinics that may suit your condition? View SafeDoc’s Partner Dermatology Clinics

Korean Pharmacy Guide to Dark Spots, Pigmentation & Scars